Week 1

It's currently the middle of Saturday and I'm sitting on a rock with my feet in the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean so it felt apt to write about my reflections and tales from the first week of being on Kosrae. 

First up, it's pronounced a little more along the lines of kosh-rye. And is a this a lot softer than the harsh 'koz-ray' I've been giving it with my British accent. But no one really seems to mind. There's actually quite a lot of variation in how people say it here anyway.

The overall feeling so far is, in a good way, there's not much to do. It truly is pretty remote and laid back. People don't run to much of a schedule, there's not many island activities going on each day apart from the more touristy sights to see (only a few) or diving.

But alas much of that hasn't been achieved yet because the theme of this week has been rain.

Contrary to what I hear has been going on in the UK, when I arrived on Monday here they had just had a tropical storm so most of the week has been the aftermath of this: strong winds and a lot of heavy rain. It's still been warm but, because of the winds, not ludicrously so. 

The lack of sunshine and luggage meant that it's been a bit too risky to get my limited supply of clothes wet by exploring places in the wet weather. Therefore, I've been trying to embrace the summer holiday spirit and take advantage of the opportunity to sit and read. I'm well into two of my books so far. (NB. By 'well into', for me that means chapter 3).

Differently to what I expected, people rely on cars a lot here. I figured it would be easy enough to get around by foot or bicycle but things are fairly spread out here (and there's only one of everything) so everyone drives everywhere. This didn't help much this week either because, without a set of wheels and it being too rainy to walk about, I was a bit limited to hanging out where I was staying.

But fortunately for me, where I'm staying, the Pacific Treelodge Resort, appears to be the hub of social activity for ex-pats on the island. Hooray hooray because this has meant there's been a good amount of people to meet and talk with. It's restaurant also gathers people from all over the island nightly so thankfully I've got access to a social scene whilst I'm here. 

Because, from observations so far, the native Kosraeans generally tend to keep themselves to themselves. They'll say hello when you go past and say hi, but only if you make the first move. I'm thankful therefore that I'll be working at the hospital where the majority of folk are Kosraean - this should hopefully mean I'll get a good exposure and understanding of the native community. 

...

People I've met along the way this week;

On the same flight as me and staying at the same place was a fellow from neighbouring Pohnpei island. He works for the UN small grants programme and was visiting Kosrae this week to check up on how some of his projects on this island are going. A very happy bloke, he kindly gave me lots of advice about island life (such as: when walking or cycling down the roads, take a stick to wave at the dogs that might chase you. But don't worry, they don't have rabies. Hilarious!) and get your groceries at a place called ACE Groceries (which I keep calling Ace cafe after the place just off the North Circular).

Maria, the wonderful Italian lady who, with American husband Mark, own the place where I'm staying. She has been a huge help this first week with introducing me to people, letting me know where I can find things on the island, other general practical advice and, outstandingly, lending me flip flops and clothes and sun block to tide me over until my luggage arrives. What a star.

A fellow 20-something girl from LA who lives and works on the island as part of the US Peace Corps. I happened to meet her as Maria was giving me a lift down the road to the immigration office (see picture!) and she was walking up the street. 'Where are you heading!?' 'Want a lift' 'hop in''this is Rodina from the uk' was how the conversation went. These sorts of encounters are very common on the island.

I've also met a few missionaries: one lady from a lesser known branch of the church from the US (I cannot remember the church's name unfortunately) and a man who is a Muslim missionary, about to leave after spending 6/9 months on the island. He has also been very helpful in giving me lots of island advice as he's from the States and appeciates the shift in lifestyle between home and Kosrae.

And then of corse there are the staff at the hospital where I went for the first time on Wednesday. I'm going to do a whole separate post about the hospital, and hopefully soon, so more information to come. 

As for things I've been up to, it's been quite varied. Although, and perhaps this has been because of a lack of my luggage or perhaps it's just my slightly reserved demeanour, but I haven't got any wild stories of exploration to tell i'm afraid. No 'gaaap yeaarr' style tales of self discovery and amazement. That's not really what I'm in this game for, I don't think. But experiences which, in my own way, have astounded and fascinated me. And I guess most importantly, have been hugely enjoyable and satisfying. 

The first has to be on Tuesday afternoon. The nice fellow from the UN kindly invited me to go and see possibly one of his most special projects: the Ka (pronounced 'car') tree conservation forest at Yela. This is an area of the island that is only accessible by boat and is the home to the world's only collection of Ka trees. They're currently building an education hut and walkway to access the forest and of course setting up proper conservation strategies. There's some more info two thirds down this page.

http://www.visit-micronesia.fm/attraction/index.html#01

It was an incredible experience - to see the unique trees and to be one of the handful of Brits to venture to this part of the world. And the journey by boat to get there was brilliant - I got completely soaked In ocean spray but speeding along with the wind and salty air in my hair was a dream. 

As is where I am staying, just set back from the ocean front. It's making me realise how much I love being by the sea or some sort of water. This bodes well for next year as I'll be living on the Lytham sea front in the North West. 

Every day I can see this view 

And can listen to the waves crash gently into the fringing reef just beyond the near waters. 

It's brilliant. 

And here's the view from the restaurant attached to the Treelodge resort (also the social hub place I was mentioning)

(The restaurant from the other side of the lake)

Tuesdays night was movie (and pizza) night at the Treelodge venue which was fun. We watched 'Unfinished Business' with Vince Vaughn in it. Not the world's greatest film but a really nice way to spend the evening and meet some more people.

Funnily enough, not much jet lag. I think because of the crazy flight here and catching sleep wherever I could get it, once I was here, I was able to slip pretty much right into the island's normal schedule. How fortunate! :)

Always a fan of the natural world and science, the creepie crawlies and critters have been interesting me:

Wednesdy's dinner was a highlight: traditional Kosraean food. Yellowfin tuna, breadfruit, and banana mixed with coconut milk. All things that are grown locally.

(Breadfruit - raw)

(Breadfruit - cooked. Boiled I think)

It was all really tasty! I'm always a bit skeptical because, as my close friends will know, I have incredibly bland tastes but this was all really yummy. And the bananas they have here taste amazing. 

There's a thing called Kosraean soup which is basically all the above ingredients put into a soup (minus the banana). Also pretty good. 

I've also tried bandanus (sp?) which is a sweet fruit that you bite a bit off, chew, then spit out like gum. Good to try but I don't think I'll be having it again voluntarily.

Bandanus

I've also been on a boat that sails around the harbour inbetween the main island and the little one (Lelu island) off the side. This happened at dusk on Thursday night and, although there wasn't much sunshine, it was still a pleasant trip which took us past an amazing mango tree set on a little peak of land. The thing with this tree is that, the black dots around the top of it in the picture aren't birds. They're actually fruit bats! A number of them flew overhead too. They're a lot bigger than you think they'll be!

Friday's highlight was of course being reacquainted with my suitcase, which I hadn't seen since England 6 days previous. Yippee!!!!

And then there's where I am writing this - amongst the rock pools about 10/15m off shore from the beach. I haven't been snorkelling yet but will be hoping to next weekend so this is the nearest I've come yet to marine life. And it sure didn't disappoint. Check out what I've seen this lunchtime...

A blue starfish!! Amazing!

Later on today there's a BBQ and social as it is, of course, the 4th of July today. Whilst not part of the USA, it's got close ties to it and there are a number of American people who live here so plenty of reasons to celebrate. Although, without any apples I think it's going to be pumpkin pie rather than uncle sam's traditional dish! 

 

(I'm still working on getting connected to Internet properly, after which I can hopefully write more frequently, saving you all from these mammoth posts. Thanks for reading!)